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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 193
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The Official 'I ALMOST DIED' Thread
When I was around 16, me and my friend went out at the wedge in Newport. It was about 10-12 ft which we could handle but didn't know it was a mega building swell.
Soon turned to 15 feet, 20 feet, 25 feet plus. (Barely) paddling over those things I have never felt so insignificant in my life. Took about an hr of that before we could finally make it in without getting slammed by a 25 footer. An unforgettable day. When we saw pros we admired in magazines dropping in on 25 foot plus waves right next to us, we knew we were in over our heads, literally. But I'll never forget what it looks and feels like looking down the face of a 25 foot wave at the wedge as I barely made it over the top ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chula Vista
Posts: 1,589
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Josh, I read your post with out seeing who it was. 1/2 way thru I guessed it was you.
I took a massive wipe out surfing the north jetty of Humboldt Bay. Broke my leash. Swam in thru huge walls of white water. Got to the sand in sprinted down the beach, out the jetty, and dove in to get my board that was getting pull out to sea in the rip that runs out along the jetty. Swam hard, got the board, n rode a massive wave in at about sun set. Damn I was stupid. Mike |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 33
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I almost died
I saw wiredunce trying to launch the other day , I laughed so hard,I almost died!!!
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