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Old 02-15-2008, 10:45 AM   #1
h2osycho1
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FF/GPS Connections

I'm looking for any suggestions as to minimize plugging into my Cuda FF/GPS unit. It appears that when I plug into the unit sometimes the connecting pins on the Cuda will bend then I'll have to straighten them out and re-insert the plug. My thought was to leave the plug in the unit and cut the cables at a convenient spot and install quick connects on the cable/wiring. Suggestions?

Thanks
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Old 02-15-2008, 11:10 AM   #2
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I use waterproof deck plugs with a liberal amount of dilectric grease just in case.

The more connections you have, the more areas that saltwater has a chance to intrude. Try to minimize these as much as possible. And again... lots of dilectric grease! It has yet to hurt a kayak or electronic gear.
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Old 02-15-2008, 12:00 PM   #3
h2osycho1
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FF/GPS Connections

Is it common to cut the wiring/cables and reconnect them with waterproof connectors?

Thanks for your help!
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Old 02-15-2008, 12:26 PM   #4
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I don't think the transducer cable could be cut. Or, I wouldn't recommend it.
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Old 02-15-2008, 01:15 PM   #5
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I wouldn't try to cut a transducer or GPS cable unless you are skilled at that sort of thing. I'm an electronics technician in the Navy Reserve and I've been trained to make up and repair small gage data and coax cables......and I wouldn't do it. I don't have the tools or materials at home to do a GOOD job of it. I could easily splice a coax cable, but I don't think that I could do it without some signal loss or noise. I don't like having to coil up 25' of cable inside the hull, but I think it's better than a bad connection any day.

I think that the answer is leaving the FF mounted. Back when I had a secure storage area for my kayak, I never took the FF off. Now I leave my kayak on my truck all the time, so I have to take the FF off and lock it up. On the old yak I just used a good coating of dielectric grease and covered the head unit with a marine electronics cover and I never had any problems. I would only need to take the head unit off occasionally to clean and re-grease the connectors. A ziplock bag or a marine electronics cover will protect the head unit and connectors from splashing water. A cover or bag won't keep it dry if you are punching through a big wave, but it will protect it from water being forced through the seals. In five years of kayak fishing I've never had a head unit fail due to water penetrating the case.



You can see the marine electronics cover in the image above. I got this cover from Boater's World. It has a couple of small vent screens on the top to limit condensation build-up and fogging. The cover has an elastic bottom that keeps it firmly attached. I've gone through many a wave and I've never had it fall off. If you're using a ziplock bag, you can put a large rubber band around the neck to keep it in place.
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Old 02-15-2008, 01:20 PM   #6
h2osycho1
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FF/GPS Connections

Quote:
Originally Posted by dgax65 View Post
I wouldn't try to cut a transducer or GPS cable unless you are skilled at that sort of thing. I'm an electronics technician in the Navy Reserve and I've been trained to make up and repair small gage data and coax cables......and I wouldn't do it. I don't have the tools or materials at home to do a GOOD job of it. I could easily splice a coax cable, but I don't think that I could do it without some signal loss or noise. I don't like having to coil up 25' of cable inside the hull, but I think it's better than a bad connection any day.

I think that the answer is leaving the FF mounted. Back when I had a secure storage area for my kayak, I never took the FF off. Now I leave my kayak on my truck all the time, so I have to take the FF off and lock it up. On the old yak I just used a good coating of dielectric grease and covered the head unit with a marine electronics cover and I never had any problems. I would only need to take the head unit off occasionally to clean and re-grease the connectors. A ziplock bag or a marine electronics cover will protect the head unit and connectors from splashing water. A cover or bag won't keep it dry if you are punching through a big wave, but it will protect it from water being forced through the seals. In five years of kayak fishing I've never had a head unit fail due to water penetrating the case.



You can see the marine electronics cover in the image above. I got this cover from Boater's World. It has a couple of small vent screens on the top to limit condensation build-up and fogging. The cover has an elastic bottom that keeps it firmly attached. I've gone through many a wave and I've never had it fall off. If you're using a ziplock bag, you can put a large rubber band around the neck to keep it in place.

Thanks Guys for all your help!
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Old 02-15-2008, 01:38 PM   #7
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Given the lack of reports lately, let's hear more about that YT, Doug...
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Old 02-15-2008, 06:16 PM   #8
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Sorry...archival image from pre-back injury days. I didn't have too many pictures of my FF with the cover on, so I had to use an old shot. I've just started paddling again after an extended hiatus.
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Old 02-15-2008, 06:40 PM   #9
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is dialectric grease the same as dialectric silicon compound? they sell tubes of it at west marine and in an aeresol
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Old 02-15-2008, 08:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdcityboy View Post
is dialectric grease the same as dialectric silicon compound? they sell tubes of it at west marine and in an aeresol
Same stuff. I got the one in an aerosol can. You're probably better off with a small tube. When you squeeze the trigger on the can a ton of the crap comes out and it gets all over the place. When I first started using it, I would always get too much on the connectors. Too much dielectric grease will definitely attenuate the already small signals from the transducer and ruin your sonar's performance. If you get a small tube you can carefully apply to individual connector pins and small, hard to reach areas within connectors.
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Old 02-16-2008, 02:41 PM   #11
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I tried the aerosol as well and had similar results . I bought the 3M 8oz tub with a brush applicator. I have used it for 2 years and it still almost full. The brush can help get the grease into very small areas as well as help you to get rid of excess amounts. Dielectic grease (silicone paste), also works really well for lubricating o-rings, and other friction rubber areas like twisting hatch covers with rubber rings, etc., but Vasoline is cheaper for those uses.

Doug, is there a reason not to use just plain ol' Vasoline? I have never researched it because it seemed like a dumb question... but... Inquiring minds want to know....
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Old 02-17-2008, 12:39 AM   #12
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I read somewhere that Vaseline (Petroleum Jelly) deteriorated certain types of rubber.....or maybe it was rubbers that it deteriorates I don't know. They say that you shouldn't use it when you're using a rubber.....or maybe that's super glue I don't know, but I'll do some research. Reading type research....Google searches and that sort of thing. No field tests or anything like that. Why are you asking me about Vaseline anyways? Did somebody say something? Damn, why can't people just keep their mouths shut.


Seriously...petroleum jelly does cause latex rubber to break down. Silcone grease is safe for use with all types of rubber. I don't know if natural latex is commonly used in O-ring seals; I doubt it, but I may be wrong. Just in case you do have latex O-rings, the silicone is a better option.
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