How to time the waves/surf?

[FARRIER]

It just takes time on the water. You can read all the articles in the world but nothing trumps experience. If you drive down with your yak and you dont feel comfortable launching with your gear, take just your yak out and give it a whirl. But to more answer your question, I look out past the very last wave breaking while im waiting to come in. If you watch the water very closely you will see which waves are going to break outside versus middle by the shape of the swell. If the swells are long and flat they will break closer to shore. If they have more of an "A" shape to them the will most likely break outside. When its big I paddle in at a 45 to the beach so I can time the swells coming in. When a big one breaks i paddle right behind where it broke to take advantage of the waves energy pulling me to shore.