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Old 06-29-2007, 05:12 PM   #8
Aaron&Julie
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Spring Valley
Posts: 1,400
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimm H View Post
Don't launch when I do.
A classic line that goes for us too. We seem to time it perfect...for the big ones.
Our best advice, once that good sized wave is headed at you is to make sure you:
1) are as perpendicular to the wave as possible.
2) have as much forward momentum as possible.
If it's a dicey wave and you have these two things in your favor you will probably be soaked but not roll. BUT...then you have to recover quickly and make sure you have those two things in your favor should you be hit by another big one, or two, or three. You know you've paid your dues when 3 to 5 waves swamp you in succession and you still make it out with all your gear.
It feels like crap being soaked, especially when the sun ain't even up to warm you, but you are grateful to the ocean gods that you made it out...somewhat intact.
Better luck next time.
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