Trying to learn more about Rod and Reel setups

[goldenglory18]

All,

Looking at used rods and reels around this and other forums, I think I'm realizing that I still don't know enough about the saltwater gear as I should.

Does anyone have handy, or know of a good read that I can dive into that explains the "three setups" rule? 15-30, 30-40, 40-50lbs? That's line weights right? Not fish weight? Does each one of those setups have a specific technique attached to it (like LMB setups) or is it more general than that?

Also, would anyone like to critique what I have so far and help guide me in filling the gaps?

Much appreciated as always!

- Kenny

[Mahigeer]

The numbers are listed tested line strength. I use braid of #60 or so and top it with 30-40 yards of mono, then tie the appropriate leader of about (5) feet long.

Some times the fish (yellowtails) are finicky and would become line shy.

Some times the fish are bigger and heavier line is needed.

If you are in the market to buy conventional reels, I highly recommend (2) speed reels.

Being so close to water on a kayak, no need for long rods.

I hope this is good start for you answer.

[alanw]

Lots of rod/tackle posts here if you search for them. Also BD has some good articles too. What are you targeting? Yellowtail? Bass? Rockfish? Lots of info around!

[Saba Slayer]

Go to one of the Fred Hall Shows and you can talk directly to the top rod manufacturers and suppliers about their products.
The Long Beach show is the first week of March. If you can't wait till then...the PCS Festival is February 17 thru 19...stop by the CCA CAL booth at either one and sign up so you can fish the "Battle of the Bays" tournaments in May and June.

[Deamon]

Hey GGloryH,

Deep breath, slow down. Don't get caught up in the hype. There are a lot of great setups at significant variation in pricing. I am on the low medium end of the budget scale. Here are my go-to's.

Terramar Inshore Tmc x70H
I put Daiwa X20 SHA reels on them. Many will say this reel is too small but they're just whiny jack offs, lol. A great kayak reel at a fair price and catches all of our fish. Nothing better than fighting big fish on good, smaller gear. It's the drags and line that really matter anyways. Try to buy your reels new.

Cal Star Grafightet 700 L
And a CS 700 ML
Solid solid backbone
These both have Shimano Toriums (16 & 20) but only because they carried over from my boating days. These reels suck as kayak reels unless you dry bag them on launch and landings, which is what I suggest for all of your reels.

The fiberglass or composite rods will hold up MUCH BETTER than straight graphite, esp if you bang your rods around.
Phenix SUCKS as kayak rods and their warranty is the ABSOLUTE WORST, trust me.

If you're the type, think abt buying your rods used. Take your time and troll bloody decks. Make sure there are no bruises and CLEAN ASS guides. You'll find guys dumping great rods at crazy low prices, if you're quick. I bought one of those Cal Stars for $90. Dude needed money. Also, Cal Star and Shimano have GREAT WARRANTY's if a rod breaks, trust me.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

Jim

[goldenglory18]

Originally Posted by Deamon

Hey GGloryH,

Deep breath, slow down. Don't get caught up in the hype...

...Hope this helps. Good luck!

Jim

Haha, yeah, thanks Jim. I'm all about finding the deal, especially when it comes to quality used, or NIB stuff guys are off loading (I've done a few deals on BD.) Like most yak anglers, I'm a gearhead and enjoy the collecting and tinkering that comes with the hobby. I've just spent so long as a fresh water bass guy I'm still kinda lost on the salt gear.

[goldenglory18]

Originally Posted by Mahigeer

The numbers are listed tested line strength. I use braid of #60 or so and top it with 30-40 yards of mono, then tie the appropriate leader of about (5) feet long.

Some times the fish (yellowtails) are finicky and would become line shy.

Some times the fish are bigger and need heavier line is needed.

If you are in the market to buy conventional reels, I highly recommend (2) speed reels.

Being so close to water on a kayak, no need for long rods.

I hope this is good start for you answer.

Just saw this post. This helps a lot. Thanks!

[taggermike]

Gear choice can get confusing.
What I bring often depends on the season and what I plan on fishing for.
But the out fits I always take are a surface iron rod. A heavy bait rod. And a lighter general purpose rod for sibiki or lighter baits.
Additional gear would be a heavy bait caster if I'm after calico bass. A lighter jig stick if smaller fish are on the surface. Or a heavy out fit for yo-yo.

Nothing wrong with bringing 6 rods and 4-6 plano boxes. But over the years Ive whittled down what I bring. Usually 4 rods, 1 plano box, 2 fluerocarbon leader spools, and a small water proof box with a few extra sibikis and maybe a dozen circle hooks.

If you're fairly new to yak fishing and want to fish LJ I'd recomend starting with a bait stick that will handle line up to 40 lb. There are lots of ways to target yellow tail but live bait fishing (IMO) is the most effective, easiest, and simplest technique. As you see how you'll be fishing and what you want to fish for you can add other out fits. Mike.

[Mahigeer]

I forgot to mention before that if you plan to catch your own bait with Sabiki rigs, this rod is the best to have on a kayak or anywhere else for that matter.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AHI-RSB-800-...gAAOSwBahVNP6l

It stores the rig with six hooks inside (rod is hollow) when not used to keep the hooks from snagging to everything in its proximity.

Turner Booth at the Fred Hall Show usually has them at the reduced price, or with free rigs.

If you get one a low profile bait casting reel is the best for this rod. Even though other kind of reels can be used.

[BIG JOAQUIN]

If you are just starting, get a 30lb rod&reel combo. A rod rated for 20-40lb mono and a reel that can carry up to 300 yards of 50-65lb braid. Use 20-40lb leader based on current conditions. Smile and have some fun.

Be carful with kayak selection as some have cosmetic blems which may have an effect on how you determine their value.

[King Saba]

Originally Posted by Mahigeer

I forgot to mention before that if you plan to catch your own bait with Sabiki rigs, this rod is the best to have on a kayak or anywhere else for that matter.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AHI-RSB-800-...gAAOSwBahVNP6l

It stores the rig with six hooks inside (rod is hollow) when not used to keep the hooks from snagging to everything in its proximity.

Turner Booth at the Fred Hall Show usually has them at the reduced price, or with free rigs.

If you get one a low profile bait casting reel is the best for this rod. Even though other kind of reels can be used.

I get around the sabiki snagging issue by trimming the rig in half and adding a swivel afterwards. 6 mackerel on the end of your line can be a headache on a kayak.

[YakDout]

I tend to fish for yellowtail with gear that most people would use calico bass fishing. But I like to stay on the lighter side of the spectrum for gear. I landed a 44lb mossback last march on a rod rated 10-20 with no problems. Also this past october landed 2-3 roosterfish over 35lbs with a lexa 300 and a different 10-20lb rod. Different strokes for different folks, but I like to feel the fishes..

[Mahigeer]

Sibiki rods and how worthless they are...
With all due respect I disagree.
Having used both lengths for many years. Caught many bait and when done simply unattached the top section while leaving the rig inside and transported in a trunk.

1. no flex easily lets mackerel shake off the hook, and has zero sensitivity.
Flex and sensitivity are not needed to catch bait. They hook themselves.

2. no ability to switch them over to another setup once bait is made, like a backup flyline or iron
With attachment of a snap swivel to the main line, one can change rigs if needed in emergency. However, the beauty of the rod is to house the Sabiki rig easily, quickly and safely once done catching bait.

3. virtually impossible to re-thread on the water if sibiki breaks
A heavy test line, piano wire, flatten small split sinker and/or a large paper clip can help in re-threading the new line.

4. internal line routing which is supposed to eliminate tangles, actually tangles the sibiki and it gets stuck inside
There is a limit on how big of a hook to use. Size 6 or 8 are best for bait fishing. There is also a limit on the length, but removing one or two hooks does not affect the functionality of bait rigs.

When it comes to fishing gear there are many choices, because there are many personal preferences by anglers.

My recommendation is due to firsthand experience.

I have no affiliation with Ahi or sellers.

[alanw]

I used to carry around a dedicated bait rod, then realized how dumb that was because I have more important uses for my limited rod holders and decided against getting a sabiki rod. Now I just use any available rod that has a hook attached, and run the hook through the swivel on the sabiki rig. It could be a raw hook, a swim bait, a jig, doesn't matter. When done I just unhook the sabiki rig and stow it, then fish with my rod and I don't even need to retie anything.

[YakDout]

Originally Posted by alanw

I used to carry around a dedicated bait rod, then realized how dumb that was because I have more important uses for my limited rod holders and decided against getting a sabiki rod. Now I just use any available rod that has a hook attached, and run the hook through the swivel on the sabiki rig. It could be a raw hook, a swim bait, a jig, doesn't matter. When done I just unhook the sabiki rig and stow it, then fish with my rod and I don't even need to retie anything.

You never lose the bait rig like that? Or no because there is always tension usinf heavier weights?

[alanw]

Originally Posted by YakDout

You never lose the bait rig like that? Or no because there is always tension usinf heavier weights?

Yea, good question. I always use at least 4oz weights to avoid the dreaded mackerel ball of sabiki death, so the tension on the hook along with the barb works well to keep it in place. But, after many months I finally lost one when the weight hit the sand and the sabiki just came unhooked - glad I always de-barb them before use. I have since then always run the hook through both eyes of the swivel and have never lost another.

[goldenglory18]

Originally Posted by YakDout

I tend to fish for yellowtail with gear that most people would use calico bass fishing. But I like to stay on the lighter side of the spectrum for gear. I landed a 44lb mossback last march on a rod rated 10-20 with no problems. Also this past october landed 2-3 roosterfish over 35lbs with a lexa 300 and a different 10-20lb rod. Different strokes for different folks, but I like to feel the fishes..

That's actually exactly how I like to fish for bass. The only time I'd ever be outgunned is if I hooked up in deep tulies and couldnt wind them out fast enough. I may be sending you a PM here tonight...

Originally Posted by alanw

I used to carry around a dedicated bait rod, then realized how dumb that was because I have more important uses for my limited rod holders and decided against getting a sabiki rod. Now I just use any available rod that has a hook attached, and run the hook through the swivel on the sabiki rig. It could be a raw hook, a swim bait, a jig, doesn't matter. When done I just unhook the sabiki rig and stow it, then fish with my rod and I don't even need to retie anything.

That's brilliant!

[YakDout]

Originally Posted by alanw

I used to carry around a dedicated bait rod, then realized how dumb that was because I have more important uses for my limited rod holders and decided against getting a sabiki rod. Now I just use any available rod that has a hook attached, and run the hook through the swivel on the sabiki rig. It could be a raw hook, a swim bait, a jig, doesn't matter. When done I just unhook the sabiki rig and stow it, then fish with my rod and I don't even need to retie anything.

You never lose the bait rig like that? Or no because there is always tension usinf heavier weights?

[DPevin]

Originally Posted by YakDout

You never lose the bait rig like that? Or no because there is always tension usinf heavier weights?

The first time I read his post I imagined a clasp like at the bottom of the sabiki rig for the weight, but put on top the swivel and then snapped to the eye of the hook. But after reading his post again, it does sound like he is just putting the hook through the eye of the swivel....interesting.

I guess my two bits to the whole thread would be to find reels that have a reputation for being durable. And clean them properly after every trip. Being on the kayak so close to the water, and increased chances of reels taking a dip real fast every now and then/water splashing on them...everything just gets beat up more by the salt.

Used rods are a great cheap option, and as its already been said, you can find smoking deals if you just creep the forums and have the cash ready and jump on an opportunity.

My budget has been pretty limited so I have gone the route of used reels. I would highly recommend buying your reels new. The used reels I have bought have been more of a headache than anything. It's just nicer to have confidence in your reels when they are brand new and you know they will work properly. Again, as already stated you don't have to get crazy. There are some great durable reels out there for fair prices that cover all our kayak needs.

[FullFlavorPike]

Originally Posted by alanw

I used to carry around a dedicated bait rod, then realized how dumb that was because I have more important uses for my limited rod holders and decided against getting a sabiki rod. Now I just use any available rod that has a hook attached, and run the hook through the swivel on the sabiki rig. It could be a raw hook, a swim bait, a jig, doesn't matter. When done I just unhook the sabiki rig and stow it, then fish with my rod and I don't even need to retie anything.

I don't even bring a sabiki rod. I just sprinkle some chum in the water and slap those little fools into the bait tank like a grizzly bear.