[Mr. NiceGuy]

Go out with an empty kayak in waves that are just beyond your ability and knock around to learn techniques that are most comfortable to you.

If you are in San Diego, try going to the mouth of the river at Dog Beach in OB. That's a good place to practice in a variety of waves. Wave height there is generally higher than at La Jolla Shores. Go out into the breakers and hold in position facing outward for several sets. Then turn your bow toward shore and hold the same position through several sets with waves coming from behind you. You will probably quickly begin to learn the physics of what's happening. As your confidence builds, then turn sideways and let the waves broadside you. You will then understand about leaning into the wave or away from the wave. Learn how to dig in your paddle sharp and fast to try to stop surfing from developing or to keep yourself perpendicular to the waves as they crash into you. Learn how to skim your paddle on the surface for balance and steering when a wave catches you. Learn when to dig in, and how much.

I avoid surfing in. Surfing a wave is fun when it starts, but too much momentum quickly develops and then becomes uncontrollable. My Outback was not designed for surfing. At the end of a surf run, it tends to turn sideways into a roll if it doesn't crash harder first.

Dig in your paddle and paddle backwards to kill surfing before it starts. Stay in control as much as possible.

If you get parallel to a wave and are going to get clobbered, lean into the wave. The kayak will lift up and the water will pass under you. If you let the kayak lean away from the wave, you will lose control and roll.

Before you go home, go out in the river mouth where it's calm and practice re-boarding your upright kayak in water over your head. Then practice turning your kayak right side up from a capsized position ... in water over your head, wearing your PFD.

When your kayak is full of water sloshing around, you might think about the benefit of having a hand pump.

That's a short list of some things to think about. If you go knock around and challenge yourself on a nice day in an empty kayak it will make more sense than learning the hard way when you are full of gear. It's better to know your limits in advance, then practice raising your limits in a methodical way.

Have fun!