Quote:
Originally Posted by ProfessorLongArms
DUUUUDE. Nice catch!!!
Way to share the stoke. Awesome photos and write up 
Also I’ve kind of come to love having a wave completely take the bow and cover me head to toe on launch...
Better than coffee some days.
I’ve found the more you do it, the more confidence you get, the less stressful it is. Always a little “pucker factor” but less dread more excitement |
Happy to share the stoke! It's the least I can do for you guys
And it's funny; I've surfed my whole life in a range of conditions and sizes. As we were getting ready to launch that morning watching how much bigger the waves were than last time and making ourselves more nervous, I looked at my buddy and said, "Dude, wtf! I've never been so sketched out by 2-3' surf in my life!" So we just laughed and went for it. The "pucker factor" is definitely real though... I had coffee in my dry bag too, so I was definitely awake!