Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge - View Single Post

Aaron · 05-03-2010, 12:46 PM

Am I missing the advantage of a wet mount? I am getting that it could mean better resolution, but with the proper installation of a thru-hull, resolution is dandy. With either a thru hull or a wet mount, the trans has to shoot through the plastic of the hull and the saltwater still is a different medium than the fluid you are filling the wet mount container with, just like mounting it in goop.

One thing that I can see being alleviated with the wet mount is the infamous "bubble problem" with goop. But this can be defeated! Here's a few "tricks" that I've used to get rid of the bubbles. I'm sure there are a million and that some of these are well known and that this is a bit off topic, but I'm bored so I will list...

1. When you apply your goop, use a 10 oz cartridge (caulking tube style) rather than the squeeze tube and as you apply, LEAVE THE TIP IN THE GOOP AS YOU SQUEEZE. What I mean is, allow the wet goop to build up around the tip of the caulking tube. Bubbles can be made by essentially "folding in" bubbles as the tip is raised and lowered. I say to use the caulking cartridges and a caulking gun as they are much easier to leave in place while the goop is being squeezed out than while the toothpaste style tube is being squeezed.

2. When you insert the transducer, do not "belly-flop" it or in other words, don't insert it flat into the goop. "Roll" it in from either front to back or back to front or side to side.

3. Use plenty of goop. I'm a fan of making things look clean, but I'm also a fan of making things work. Trying to make the edges of your goop line up with the edges of your trans will mean certain failure. You don't need to fill your hull, but a good amount of goop rather than the exact amount will mean wonders for your resolution. I would say that the area covered by goop extends at least an inch around all sides of my transducer.

4. Warm the tube of goop. This is a good one and a pretty easy "trick". Take a rag and soak it in water. Microwave the rag until its pretty warm/hot. Wrap the goop in the hot rag . This will lower the viscosity (thin) of the goop which will make it far less likely to trap bubbles. The goop will be "runnier" so building a small reservoir out of masking tape prior to pumping in your warmed goop may be a good idea.

5. Slap the hell out of your yak. A couple of good whacks on the underside of your yak with a flat palm may just loosen up some of your air bubbles.

By doing these things I've had the same install on the same transducer for 3 years running. Good resolution and nothing to check prior to heading out. But maybe I'm an old school guy and these "new school" wet mount guys will be able to convince me that its the way to go!

05-03-2010, 12:46 PM	#67
Aaron Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Posts: 175	Am I missing the advantage of a wet mount? I am getting that it could mean better resolution, but with the proper installation of a thru-hull, resolution is dandy. With either a thru hull or a wet mount, the trans has to shoot through the plastic of the hull and the saltwater still is a different medium than the fluid you are filling the wet mount container with, just like mounting it in goop. One thing that I can see being alleviated with the wet mount is the infamous "bubble problem" with goop. But this can be defeated! Here's a few "tricks" that I've used to get rid of the bubbles. I'm sure there are a million and that some of these are well known and that this is a bit off topic, but I'm bored so I will list... 1. When you apply your goop, use a 10 oz cartridge (caulking tube style) rather than the squeeze tube and as you apply, LEAVE THE TIP IN THE GOOP AS YOU SQUEEZE. What I mean is, allow the wet goop to build up around the tip of the caulking tube. Bubbles can be made by essentially "folding in" bubbles as the tip is raised and lowered. I say to use the caulking cartridges and a caulking gun as they are much easier to leave in place while the goop is being squeezed out than while the toothpaste style tube is being squeezed. 2. When you insert the transducer, do not "belly-flop" it or in other words, don't insert it flat into the goop. "Roll" it in from either front to back or back to front or side to side. 3. Use plenty of goop. I'm a fan of making things look clean, but I'm also a fan of making things work. Trying to make the edges of your goop line up with the edges of your trans will mean certain failure. You don't need to fill your hull, but a good amount of goop rather than the exact amount will mean wonders for your resolution. I would say that the area covered by goop extends at least an inch around all sides of my transducer. 4. Warm the tube of goop. This is a good one and a pretty easy "trick". Take a rag and soak it in water. Microwave the rag until its pretty warm/hot. Wrap the goop in the hot rag . This will lower the viscosity (thin) of the goop which will make it far less likely to trap bubbles. The goop will be "runnier" so building a small reservoir out of masking tape prior to pumping in your warmed goop may be a good idea. 5. Slap the hell out of your yak. A couple of good whacks on the underside of your yak with a flat palm may just loosen up some of your air bubbles. By doing these things I've had the same install on the same transducer for 3 years running. Good resolution and nothing to check prior to heading out. But maybe I'm an old school guy and these "new school" wet mount guys will be able to convince me that its the way to go!