ops.
all good tho. Few weeks ago, I let certain individual talk me not into stashing my rods for landing, which I normally do. It was really flat, so I felt I ought to be OK; I haven't rolled in a while. The set showed up out of no where… I don't even know how I made it… Leaned hard into it, stayed up and surfed the foam sideways, then jumped out as it passed me…
I think getting through the surf and coming back definitely adds to the whole adventure. Wave has got to win sometime too.
But I’m back to stashing my rods.