Safety neutral switch
 

Are you familiar with yours, a sign their going bad is truck won't start. If this happens to you and you no your battery and connection are good meaning dash lights go on and strong head lights but truck go's click click click when you turn the key and won't start. If this happens like it did to me after the mission bay classic tournament lucky it happen at home and not on the road.but if it does then put vehicle in neutral rock shifter handle and start vehicle
I would definitely have a spare switch added to my list of spare parts list if I was going to travel in baja my vehicle is an Ford F250 V10

Sorry to disagree with the diagnosis.

If the Neutral safety switch is bad, there won't be any click noise.

The click and no start is more likely a bad contacts at the starter solenoid.

If the starter positive terminal where the heavy gauge wire attaches can be reached (the terminal which goes to the starter motor); a jumper to that terminal with a heavy duty wire will confirm the bad solenoid.

If you have a Toyota, there are repair kits to overhaul the solenoid.

Replacing the neutral switch is not an easy job, depending on the vehicle.

Check your wipers

Ford truck
 

Super Duty pick -ups/Excursion
1999-10 Repair Manual

It is hard to read the page, but the Solenoid possibility is #6, ahead of the safety switch.
There is also no mention of “click” either.

The original post did not indicate that the vehicle was a stick shift. These days %99 of vehicles are equipped with automatic transmission.

However, I still feel that if there is a clicking noise, there is current to the solenoid. That would eliminate ignition switch, safety switch, wiring, relay/s etc.

Every time an engine is cranked, the solenoid contacts wear out due to current jumping from one contact to other. It is the same principal as arc welding.

If you are familiar with the old distributors where they had points and condenser, the points would be pitted due to current jumping. The condenser was there to reduce this effect. Regardless, the points and condenser had to be changed during tune-ups.
There is no condenser that I am aware for the starter.

Without looking at the wiring diagram and having a voltmeter attached while the problem happens, it would be a lot of guess work.

Good luck in finding the problem, and please post the findings.

When I turned the key everything lite up
 

But engine would not turn over after cleaning already clean battery posts and trying to jump with another battery 1to 2hrs later i figured out that was not the problem and my battery was brand new.
So I Google search my trucks problem and found out about the safety neutral switch.thinking it was that or from the battery to the starter. I found a Google open form.talking about the safety neutral switch and to put truck in neutral wiggle automatic transmission shift handle and i got it started so everything is working right now after buying a new switch for $60 the form said it might be going bad and to I may have slack in my shift cable and you can ajust switch truck is not suppose to start in gear if it does switch is out of adjustment or bad I still going to check all connections got truck running but not 100 percent sure what it is I will let you no what I find

Clicking at the starter solenoid is usually because of low current at the solenoid. If the battery is good and the solenoid is good then it's a switch going bad somewhere down the line. Check the ignition switch, neutral/park switch, starter relay, or maybe bad wiring somewhere. You can apply power directly from the battery to the solenoid as a test to eliminate both of them as the problem but be careful the car is in park with the e-brakes on or your car might be driving without you :eek: