My Bait Tank Ideas
 

I always enjoy the concept of community and "open source" innovation that goes along with that in cyberspace.

Rerigging my kayak and took the collective ideas of those who shared in the past and added my own take on it.

For this post, I wanted to give a couple of quick examples of how I did things this time around in respect to my live well/bait tank v2.

I wanted a few additional things/goals out of this project.

1. Maintain prime and water level when pump is switched off.
2. Ability to pick up water through the scupper.
3. Multiple water level for bait versus live well usage.
4. Two stage water intake speed.

I love the idea of using the airtight dog food container. It fits pretty well (barely) in my Malibu Kayak Pro Explorer. I like it for it's low profile and generic look that works for our intended purpose without giving away what it was actually made for.

Pictured here is the Vittle Vault 15 in a stone finish. I have seen it also in a warmer/pinkish stone color as well. Got it on sale for about $22 at PetSmart. Petsmart seem to have it for cheaper than Petco.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4154/...fc3f82f5_b.jpg

This container can hold almost 4.7 gallon of water according to the mfg website. Because the Vittle Vault 15 is wider than a 5gal bucket, it helps to keeps the center of gravity lower when filled with the same amount of water. In both vessel, I never actually fill it all the way to capacity. Because of the higher walls and narrower footprint of the 5gal bucket, I keep my water level lower than I do with the Vittle Vault. Therefore, the Vittle Vault allow me to have more water capacity and still maintain at or a lower center of gravity than the popular 5gal bucket.

Moving on... :)

Powering my tank is a Johnson 500GPH pump. It was the cheapest one I saw at West Marine for $26.99. Linked here.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4110/...9bcfaf55_b.jpg

I sawed off a portion of the threaded tube to fit the included hose barb. It's ready for the scupper pickup hose and inline check valve as detailed below.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4103/...85642a7e_b.jpg

I salvage from my old bait tank a plastic inline non-return check valve. I bought it from West Marine for about $15 a few years back. I sawed off a portion of the bottom so it does not protrude past the bottom of the scupper hole below the kayak. The non-return valve prevents the pump from losing prime accomplishing goal #1 on my list.

A reinforce 3/4" hose attaches perfectly over the valve and the barb end of the pump without any need for clamps. This allows the hose assembly to fit into the Pro Explorer's tiny scupper perfectly without any drag from below. This accomplished goal #2 on my list.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4154/...0dfe6e67_b.jpg

I added a regular hose aerator mesh for about $1 found in any ole hardware store to help prevent large debris from getting picked up and fouling the pump. This worked well in the old bait tank without any issue so I kept the same idea for this one. Here's the pump and assembly attached to the bait tank. And a shot from the inside. I purchased a big rubber washer at Ace Hardware that fits perfectly and seal the area, preventing any leakage.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4145/...b7a8569f_b.jpg

Moving on... :)

I chose to locate the water intake towards the bottom of the tank. Hoping that the water intake there will oxygenate the bottom of the bait tank column where it may need the most oxygen once bait fish congregate there. Note also that being on the bottom makes the inline check valve even more necessary so you don't lose water like the Hobie bait tanks does. You can put a screen to prevent any scales and other stuff from traveling back down the pump if you'd like. Mine is located high enough off the bottom that I haven't had any issue.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4109/...c6e4b487_b.jpg

Bonus: locating the intake on the bottom of the tank allow me to have a very nice finish product where you don't see much of any plumbing above your kayak hull. The pump hugs the bottom of the kayak, sitting just above the scupper hole. Nice and out of sight.

For the drain, I found a variable tube at Home Depot for about $5-$6.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4125/...05566238_b.jpg

I later found out that there are two diameter tubes available. This is the larger diameter size. Had I known, I probably would have gone with the smaller diameter to leave as much room inside the bait tank as possible. Anyways, with it, I can vary the water level on the fly, accomplishing goal #3.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4133/...a9896f1b_b.jpg

I chose to locate the tube off set from the center for a couple of reason. One, it's closer to the scupper hole on my kayak. And two, it allows more room in the middle of the tank for when I use it as a live well to hold tournament catches. There's still enough room on the side to allow sardines the freedom to swim about

Here's a shot from the bottom. The gasket was easily made from a blown inner tube and everything is glued together. If the container seam wasn't there, I would have made the outlet hole where the seam is in the photo. So something to think about.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4125/...d91a2735_b.jpg

To drain the water, I reach behind me and unscrew the tube. Works for me.

Moving on...

Finally, for power, I use a 6v 12ahr SLA. But I found that running power to the pump regularly (positive lead to positive, negative to negative) still brings water into the tank at too brisk a rate. So I purchased a 3 position on/off/on DPDT toggle switch from Ace Hardware for ~$8. Then rigged it up for reverse polarity in one position, and normal polarity in the other position. This is a very common need for most hobbyist and they even sell reverse polarity DPDT switches. I didn't know of any places nearby that sells these switches already set up for reverse polarity so I simply soldered the wires myself.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4128/...57020852_b.jpg

The motor would hook up to the middle terminals. So turning it on one way will give me the full speed water pickup from the Johnson 500 hooked up to a 6v source. Toggle the switch to the opposite on position will reverse the motor, slowing down the water intake to perfect life sustaining level for the smaller bait fish IMHO.

A rubber switch boot and putting the switch into a water resistant container finishes up the electrical component and accomplish goal #4.

Follow this link for a quick video of it in action.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7Ky-rvEPII

Anyways, hope these examples help jot ideas of your own.

I like the idea with the scrunchy adjustable water level tube and the homemade self primer. Gives me ideas!thanks

Great job!

Nice work.

I like your idea of inlet at the bottom as long as it seals well. It makes sense that this would better mix the fresher water instead of simply draining off the newly pumped in water.

For your next writeup, why don't you do something on cameras and photography? Your photos are cool.

Very nice design. It is not clear to me where the water exits your pump but if you have some place to attach some kind of a tube, there is a very easy way to prevent water from draining from the tank without using a check valve.

I made this for my Hobie tank but the idea could be adapted to any other design that has a scupper intake pump with a threaded water outlet. All you need to do is install a 90 degree fitting with a short pipe extension that can be rotated. Here are the parts I used.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/a...6&d=1264622955

When you want to make sure that no water drains out, rotate the attachment so the pipe extends above the water line. If you want to let the tank drain, rotate the device so it is rests on the bottom of the tank.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/a...7&d=1264622966

I have also found that using this setup, I can easily clean the intake when it gets plugged with kelp. I carry a 12" piece of sprinkler riser with me. When the pump gets plugged, I insert the riser in the tube and blow some air through the system. It works every time.

Bob

Good stuff!

It looks like your check valve will be below the water line, keeping water in the line, but the pump is above the water line. I would think you would still have to do your initial prime by pouring water in the tank to get water to the pump to draw. The Hobie design uses a 90 pick up that uses forward momentum to draw in the water.

Water inlet at the bottom of the tank is a great idea as bait will die down there with plenty of fresh flow just above them.

interesting stuff with the reverse polarity switch, I really like using 6 volts.

Reverse Polarity Switch
 

I'm new to this whole kayak fishing thing, so I'm trying to understand what you are trying to accomplish with the reverse polarity switch. Did you wire this up so that it can drain the water in your tank? If so, wouldn't the check valve on your pickup tube keep the water from dumping? Please excuse me if I'm not understanding your setup, I'm just curious since I will be building one of these soon. Thanks.

Yes, the check valve is below the water line. To answer dsafety...the pump is above the water line so that is the reason we need the check valve. So I don't lose prime.

Iceman,
I thought about the Hobie style, forward pickup. However, I've used this setup on my last bait tank and it works well. Hobie builds a nice bait tank and I don't think it's unreasonably price either. Unfortunately, it's too big for my hull.

I usually prime at launch and it takes only a few seconds. A simple quarter twist opens up the motor and I pour 1/4 of a water bottle into to prime the pump. The check valve keeps the prime till I am ready to hit the switch to turn it on. It's easy to open up the pump on the water too.

CobraTandem,
The drain on the bottom is water tight. It uses plumbing components for your sink so there is a compression washer that prevents any leakage. The threaded nut on the bottom are all glued up with marine goop.

Hi TrunkNut,
The reverse polarity is to pull water into the tank at a slower rate than the 6v at normal polarity. It basically reverses the turning of the motor and impeller, thereby making the impeller less efficient...bringing less water per turn. The Youtube video link shows the flow of the water with normal polarity and reverse polarity visually to help you understand. :)

When filling the tank, I like to go at normal polarity to make that process happen quicker. Also, if I need the water changed in the tank quicker, I switch to normal polarity.

But for delicate bait fish or my "normal" operation, I like the reverse polarity because the water rate is slower entering the tank. A bonus effect is the water exiting the drain is less...so there is less of the trickling noise you hear from the drain operating. :)

Hope that makes sense. Holler if it doesnt.

-BTF_David

Thanks for clarifying.

I use my multi purpose :D gatoraide bottle for the same purpose as sometimes my intake needs a little push.

So DSafety, that attachment is for keeping water in the tank without the pump on right?

Thats a good Idea about blowing through it though. I think its worth adding it just for that feature!

Nice!

The Hobie tank switch is placed in a location where it is very easy to accidentally turn the motor off when reaching back for a rod. I do it several times each trip. If you install the riser tube, you can keep the water from draining out if, (when) this happens and hopefully not kill your bait.

If you want to get more oxygen to the bottom of the tank, twist the tube to the drain position while keeping the motor on. Just don't forget to put it back in the vertical position or you run the risk of having the tank drain the next time you accidentally bump the switch.

As for using the tube to blow away debris, I initially tried the screen method but found that it would often get fouled with very small particles of kelp, whale snot or other things that would impede the flow. This is a much simpler way to solve the problem and it only takes seconds.

Bob

dsafety...your solution to the mentioned problem with the Hobie bait tank is creative. Thanks for sharing.

I can see how the push/pull method of their on and off switch can lead to accidental bumping.

Nice tank!
I've just switched to the bigger Vittle Vault myself.
More info on that variable pipe outlet part and install would be cool when you update it.

Thanks. I updated the original post with the package. There's a few different tubes at Home Depot that can expand. The one I picked up in particular is an extension one, which has a couple of extra pieces. You can see all the pieces and how they fit as detailed in the back of the package.

pump?
 

btf i use to use the johson 500 pump and it failed on me numerus times using 6v the suction is not that strong for a thru scuper installation if you end up using 12v youl be fine. i sugest pay a little bit for the pump and get a tsunami from oex or if your lucky i think wallmart use to carry it.
now i have no problem on my home made tank, i like the rest of your ideas, i think i might change tank set up a little bit finness and thanks for your ideas

Thanks for the feedback Newguy. I'll let the community know if I have issues with the Johnson pump. The Tsunami is a bit big for the area I wanted to fit it in.

My first homemade bait tank attempt (last week), using a 5 gal bucket, Tsunami 500, a West Marine anti-siphone, and a 6V battery, using a through-scupper hole setup, would not get any water into my tank.

Pretty sure it was the combination of the 6V and the anti-siphone. ( yes - I had it installed correctly and not backwards :) ).

In a desperate attempt to have live bait for last weekends tourney, I ended up wiring it up and throwing the pump itself in the water with a nice long hose to feed my bait tank. Worked like a charm. :D