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Rigging the Yaks!
Hey guys. I recently introduced myself. I am a new owner of a both a Malibu Stealth 12 and 14. I am getting them all setup for the new year. My Stealth 14 really needs some work.
I would love to hear some suggestions and opinions on rigging options. A few repairs i need to make: I need to replace some lost Screw(Bolts?) on the front Handle bar, and left Handle bar. I am having some trouble finding out the size of these bolts. Also, the center bait hatch (Circular Region) is stuck badly. I cannot get it off for the life of me even with a lot of Lube. The wiring to the Lowrance 4-X DSI is really screwed up. Open wires and such is not to my standards. I would love to wire this to my Electric bait pump as well. About half of the Nylon Bungee needs replacement. Planning out a Anchor Trolley system.. Placing some orders tonight to get this project going! Any suggestions are welcome. Remember i am rigging up both Kayaks! I really have my eye on the X-Wing unit as well. I'll post pictures as the project goes on! Feel free to leave any suggestions. :you_rock: |
You should post some pics
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Alright, i'll get some up tomorrow night!
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I think for the ocean, the anchor trolly system is a waste of your resources.
For the nuts and bolts. buy stainless. I remember the guy that owned the xfactor before me used galvanized hardware that rusted. Was no way to wrench off and had to cut them. Electricity, wires and salt water are a bad combo. I would keep it simple. Eventually something in the wiring/switch will fail. Is it better to not have a bait tank or fish-finder (each wired separately)? or better that both don't work at the same time (connected to the same power source)? |
No need for an anchor in the salt.
I have tons of blue bungee if you need some. I live in Fullerton and work in Huntington Beach. |
An anchor trolley in salt isn't a waste at all, if you want one then install it. It's definitely not high priority though. I had one on my last yak and used it all the time. I have one for my new yak that I haven't installed yet, but I will. I've used an anchor in the shallows while I casted into the surf zone, I've used it to anchor up while eating lunch, I've used it to tie up to the docks, but I mostly used it with a kelp clip while hammering Calicos. A trolley is also the perfect solution to deploy a drift chute if you want to use one.
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Sorry to threadjack. I only use my phone to view here. Did anybody else's forum do an "update". Everything's totally f'd I can't post a new thread or navigate at all through the forum. I hate updates...
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Think about bilge pump I had 2 in my x factor
X wing will limit excess to the front hatch |
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All I use my trolley for is the drift chute. Works great for slowing the drift and keeping the kayak straight. |
Hey All
Thanks for the feedback. I did place a decently sized order yesterday. I am going to install a system for an Anchor, but it will be a "Drill Free" anchor. It will connect to each of the handles with Carribeaners on each side. Connected to those carribeaners will be a Pulley. Pulleys will connect in the middle with a 3" Stainless Steel loop. I will be doing some lake fishing as well. I do have a nice drift sock. It's 14" and only cost around 9 dollars. I'll post a list to what i purchased when i get home tonight. A bunch of repair parts, bungees, VHF Radio, ect. I also built a nice Kayak holder out of PVC. It ran me right around $100 of materials. It will hold both Kayaks quite nicely. Installed some shorter PVC pipes on it for rod storage! |
Screws- 316 stainless screws, marine grade, bring them in to a west marine and they will size up the screws for you.
The center hatch- is it the panel that is stuck? or the rim that bolts to the yak? the wiring- i would use a bus bar and jumpers to distribute the power and mount it inside a waterproof box. even though the x4 doesn't draw much juice, be careful of running the ff and pump to one pwr source. too small of a battery will drain one or the other. try a timer on the bait pump to conserve battery. -->tin coated marine grade wire and water resistant shrink tube for your connections. -bungee- you can buy solid core rubber or stranded rubber, the solid lasts a lot longer but is a little more expensive. whichever you use, you can shrink wrap over the frayed end so its cleaner looking. anchor trolley-not a bad idea if you are going to be anchoring in strong current. I've used them for kelp clipping and also in the bay. xwing-IMHO, is great for the bay but bulky for getting through the surf. id look into the ball ram mounts |
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I'll try to find a picture to how i'm setting up my trolley system tonight Hmm good idea on the screws. The circulator part of the center hatch is stuck. The part that screws off to prevent bait from jumping out. I will also be installing an 5-X Elite HDI so that may use a little more juice. I'll drop a link to the batteries i purchased tonight. |
It made a huge difference for when I installed my anchor trolley. Never used it for an actual anchor (although I have one), but like is invaluable when positioning yourself on a drift while using an anchor chute/drift sock. Its super easy to do as well. Lower priority though.
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I like to clip my rod leashes to the anchor trolley, that way I can slide them up and down the kayak and keep the leashes out of the way.
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For the stuck hatch - put a bag of ice on it for a half-hour or so on a warm day, then work the hell out of it. The plastic contaction MIGHT just be enough to work it free. The clean everything up and use a silicone lube. For the rest, keep it simple, and keep everything out of the way in the seat area for an unobstructed re-entry.
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Also for the stuck hatch cap, if all else fails then Malibu sells replacements if you need to bust that one out. http://www.malibukayaks.com/3piece-hatch-clear-cap
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For anything stuck I swear by a product called "Break Free". I was introduced to this solvent when I learned to service reels when I worked in a tackle shop. Apply and let soak overnight. Have loosened many a corroded screw or nut/bolt with this solvent over the years (just my experience). I always carry a bottle of it in my tackle bag while on any trips. As for your wiring, I'm glad that the HOBIE bait tank has it's own power source. Before I bought my Outback I researched a few threads/discussions/comments on this site about wiring everything together (before deciding on my HOBIE). There were many comments about the +/-'s of having everything wired together or separately. The one comment that really got me to thinking was if your main battery dies (for whatever reason) your bait tank is useless. While you can do without a fish finder since your trolling your bait anyway, if your fishing bait you will constantly have to make bait which can be distracting and time consuming/wasting. When I was thinking about buying an X-factor, I also thought about the X-wing. However after watching videos on "getting tossed" out of your kayak, it seemed that the X-wing might trap you (a little) or at least get you tangled in your Kayak AND when you try to re-enter your Kayak it might get in the way! (These are just my thoughts and evaluations of this accessory!). FFY :sifone: |
Goop the side hatches closed. They leak constantly and are utterly pointless
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I'm so amazingly behind the times. I fish from 3 different yaks so I have an ff mounted on a water proof battery box and put the transducer over the side on an armature. After having a couple batteries and pump fail I went with using a piston type bilge pump to run the bait tank. It's kinda nice having so little that can go wrong. Mike
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