Bait tank problems
 

I believe it’s the metal switch on side that quit working. I charged the battery twice and still can’t get it to turn on. Tried to turn it on the water but won’t turn on now. Any advice on how to fix or troubleshoot. Or is it time for a new switch?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...31c0ba38f6.jpg


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Hobie switches suck and fail.

I just cut out the hobie switch and rewired my bait tank so that it is hard-wired.

Some put in a different type of switch.

Also possible the pump is dead or impacted bad with eelgrass.

I’ll second this. There’s to many connection points inside the livewell that will fail. By pass the switch and use marine heat shrink over all connections.


Here’s 1 more thing to check. Or avoid doing. I used to just shut the bait tank pump off when I was done. Leaving the tank full of bait. Draining the tank through the pump without a screen caused my pump to get clogged with scales. And would not run. Now I have a small piece of kitchen sink screen and a threaded 3/4 piece of pvc covering the pump output. Stops crap from flowing into the pump and getting stuck.


These are readily available and work to. It’s a livewell aerator strainer. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b1cd0e125d.jpg


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A few options. Should be simple to diagnose.

First thing test the battery to see if it has the minimum required voltage to power the pump, and it isn't dead despite being charged.

Next inspect all of the wires between the battery terminals and the pump. make sure there are no breaks in any of them.

Then test the switch for continuity on both sides when it is in the on position
--if you have continuity, check the wire between the switch and the pump again, inspect it for any breaks, check each end of that wire for continuity. If you have continuity from the hot side of the switch all the way to the pump then you have a pump problem.

If there is a break in continuity from one side of the switch to the other you have a bad switch

If there is a break in continuity from the switch to the pump then the wire is not transmitting power to the pump

Check these things and see if it fixes the problem. If you check the switch and wire and fix them, and it still doesn't work, then you had both a power/continuity problem and a pump problem.

If the pump failed would it still make noise when it turned the switch on. Mine currently makes no noise when switched on?


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You would have to cut the wires and direct connect the pump to a good battery to find out for sure. I have failed pumps make noise and some just die and make no noise.

It depends what the problem is.
If the impeller is physically jammed/clogged, it might make a light hum or vibrate slightly. If the impeller is seized, then it might not make any noise at all, but the pump should get slightly warm to the touch after having power to it for a bit, which means it's at least getting power. If the impeller shaft is broken, it should rattle around like there was gravel in it when turned on, but may not pump water. If you have no noise at all, no warmth to the touch after having it turned on for a bit and no vibration, my assumption would be that it's not getting power.
That said, I would try looking at the wires and connections first using SoCalEDC's advice. Especially making sure the battery is good first and foremost. Then go from there. Also, don't keep power going to the pump when it's out of water for too long. If it's not already seized, then that might cause it to seize!
I'll admit, I have decades of experience dealing with different kinds of pumps working in the aquarium trade, not 100% sure if that experience applies to these livewells! Good luck getting it up and running! From what I hear about that model Hobie, it's more than likely a faulty or corroded switch.

Yeah had the same issue it’s the pull switch horrible design after I replaced the switch once it kept happening hey maybe I’m not the best electrician lol but none the less I bought the new model so far so good. I got an extra motor and plastic well For the old style. if anyone is interested lol you can unscrew the switch It’s real easy and if it’s all corroded (the switch) it’s the wiring some guys just bypass the switch all together and just plug it in when there in the water ready to prime. Good luck

Just hardwire it.

Not exactly sure how would I cut the wires off the switch and add a connector to the battery wire of the connection?


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Yes, but solder, and marine grade shrink tube. No crimps. Definitely the switch. They are POS’s


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Also make sure you're battery charger is good. I had a similar issue, I replaced the battery, the switch, and the pump and still didn't work. Come to find out the battery charger was bad so it wasn't charging my battery at all. The charger should light up when plugged in to the wall (without the battery plugged in). I didn't know that until I brought it to fast lane

I bought a couple extra connectors I cut the wire on the Baittank pulled it as close to the battery as possible and just plug it in to the battery. So when you plug it in. The original wiring should be in a clear plastic sleeve if I remember right that’s were they make the connection with the pull switch.

Bait tank problems
 

This is sad. This man needs to be out there fishing. If you feel like driving out to riverside and dropping your tank off I’ll diagnose and repair as long as it’s not the pump, if it is there’s a west marine close by and you can pick one up. You can go out to eat an I’ll text when it’s done. Just keep up with the reports.


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Buy a halfway decent multimeter and you'll find the problem in no time. Charge battery, test battery. Then test switch and every other possible connection that could be corroded. Then check at pump for DC current. If everything checks out and you've got current at the pump, but pump not pumping, then pump = problem.

Was thinking along the same lines. I am in Fullerton if you need help diagnosing problem

Not going to be able to get on the water myself for at least a few weeks so might as well help someone else out

Attwood Tsunami 500 refill cartridge
 

I've found them from Walmart for less than 20$. Run it straight to your plug. Bypass switch. They are notorious for failing. They finally corrected this issue on the new tanks with a magnetic switch. Fingers crossed. :D . By the way, the Tsunami pumps are pretty bulletproof and is unlikely the issue. Test your battery with a cheap multimeter from harbor freight. You can get one for free with any purchase, if you get the coupon.

Check the battery make sure it's over 6volts. If it is, get some heat shrink solder butt connectors like this and cut out the switch... Also if you have a 12v battery try that. It will just make the pump spin faster.

Parts list
 

Hobie sells a replacement bait tank plug. It’s expensive, but maintenance free. Pretty much bulletproof. I’ve been using them for years for my fish finder connection without a hiccup. It even comes with some water resistant connectors similar to ones pictured. There is a little splash guard on back of connector and it it packed with dielectric grease. This will provide years of trouble free operation if correctly installed. Those connectors can be purchased separately at your local hardware store. If you purchase the replacement cartridge, you can actually run a new wire straight to your connector eliminating all splices. Carefully remove the pins from back of plug and reattach them straight to your new pump. Eliminating your switch and any connection inside the tank will make the tank bulletproof.