questions on how to power a fish finder.
 

I am looking at adding a fish finder ( Simrad Go7) and I am trying to figure how to power it. A personal watercraft battery will only last for 4 hours and I spend more than that on the water, what to do?

The kayak is a wilderness thresher 155, and I am hoping to mount the battery and transducer on the removable pod up front. The pod isn't large enough to hold a full sized battery.

I spend weeks in baja off grid and will need to charge it too, ideas?
Thanks,
MMc

charge with solar or charge off another battery, alternator. batteries get heavy. if you were inclined you could switch to a lithium ion or li poly. in a waterproof box. more juice for given form factor but be advised on need for special chargers

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

I use this 12v battery as a dedicated battery for my fish finder. It lasts for a long time. Certainly longer than a day but I still give it a charge before every trip to be sure.

It's only $26, compared to the same thing from Hobie for $69

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I hang it from the lid rim of my back hatch with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Hobie-12V-Bat...battery+holder


I have a similar second 6v battery for my bait tank pump. It also lasts more than a day.

Many different options and opinions about batteries.

Lead acid SLA Battery: Found anywhere, cheaper, heavy

Lithium Ion Nocqua battery: Compact lightweight, Has been popular lately, More expensive, 500+ charge cycles.

Lithium iron Phosphate battery (Bioenno): 50-70% the weight of SLA battery, More expensive, is capable of 2000+ charge cycles.


I personally use the Bioenno battery and find that it charges fast, lasts long and is very reliable. It's an investment like everything else but you will be pleased years into the future when your battery still works well.

Your best case scenario for that boat and using the flex pod is a non-SLA battery IN A SEALED CONTAINER. Just be aware that these batteries are more expensive, but are smaller, lighter, and last longer than their lead counterparts.

The flex pod, as cool an idea as it is, and as well thought out as it is for an angler, is not waterproof, and is barely water resistant. Whatever you put in there, make sure its in a sealed and protected container, or is ok to get wet without exploding in a fiery blaze...

That FF (Simrad GO7) is rated for a little less than one amp-hour (950 mA-hour) but has a maximum power use of more like 1.6 AH, so if you use backlighting, GPS and a high energy draw transducer continuously, even a 12 amp-hour battery isn't going to be enough for a full day. A 20 AH battery will weigh a bit over 12 pounds (sealed lead acid). Does require a charger for small batteries (not a car charger) but is cheaper first cost than the seriously more expensive alternatives which take a different, special charger.

Thank you all for filling me in. What kind of finders are you using? The Simrad looks good but I am on no way tied to it. It looks very easy to use which is good. If another can be used for 8 hours, it would be very attractive.
Thanks
MMc

Go to a 5” lowrance such as an elite 5 Ti. depending on the condition of the simrad you should easily be able to fund the lowrance by selling it. Buy it at west marine (best warranty and occasional sales) . Get yourself a better battery or even two. My lithium lasts 2.5-3 full 12 hour days in baja. For off the grid charging, solar or small generator. Charge the battery you aren’t using while fishing with the other, taking advantage of the sun during the day.

Since it sounds like you're just getting into this, imo budget yourself. Keep it at $200. 4inch lowrance units work well, unless you are an avid fisherman who is planning on spending +40hrs / month otw i doubt you need anything more... expensive.

Sent from my SM-G925P using Tapatalk

SLA is cheap but heavy. I've been using a lightweight Ni-MH setup for electronics over a decade. No issues whatsoever. I keep thinking I'm going to lithium but have not had the need.

I'm using a Raymarine Dragonfly 7pro powered by a 12v SLA battery. I get about two full days of use out of it before I get a warning message on the third day.

The SLA is heavy as all-get out, but it actually helps balance my boat out nicely on the water (I put it in the nose of my Ride.)

I echo the suggestion to start out with a smaller, more basic unit. You can find good 4" units like a Lowrance Elite 4 or the smaller Humminbird for just a few $$. Learn how to use it, then upgrade as necessary. The larger models are easy to get lost in the settings and options....

I would definitely not put your simrad through the abuse of kayak fishing. get a lowrance and spend the rest on toys.

I don't know about the other companies, but I can say that the customer service from Lowrance is no less than amazing. Saltwater can be brutal on any electrical connections. Lowrance has always backed up their products for me absolutely.

I splurged for the bigger viewing area of the Elite-5, which I think is minimum and perhaps optimal for the limited space on my Outback. Smaller would make me woozy trying to watch the details bouncing around in a kayak while I'm trying to concentrate on fishing.

Because this equipment is sensitive and expensive, I carefully wash down all electrical connections after every trip to get the salt off, including my bait tank switch. Then I blast the water off the plugs and out of the sockets with an air bottle. (I disassemble and clean my bait tank pump as well to remove any eel grass.)

I'm not sure to what extent it helps, but after cleaning salt off I spray connections with electrical contact cleaner and contact lubricant.

I am less certain about using dielectric grease because it is non-conductive. I tried it without problems, then stopped. Perhaps someone here can advise me about this. I'm also curious about treating electrical connections with WD40, since it's original purpose was as a desiccant to displace water.

I use 2 15Ahr SLA to power my Homemade livewell, Hook 7, and LED Nav lights. I get a full day without any problems.

Sounds like you are doing great with cleaning your equipment after saltwater exposure.

Dielectric grease is technically non-conductive but the use is to help keep any water out of the way of the electrical connections not to help make the connection. Think of the light bulb being pushed into the socket with a 1/4 turn. The contacts are what let it work.

As far as WD-40, it is a water displacement fluid (WD=water displacement) but it isn't a desiccant. It can help prevent water on your contacts because it is fish oil based and can stick to contacts helping keep water from being on the contacts. I would recommend the dielectric grease over contact cleaner and WD-40.

The contact cleaner is good, but it will degrease. So reapply the dielectric stuff after spraying. The contact cleaner is more for corroded contacts, which shouldn’t be needed if you’ve been greasing from the beginning.

Go to your auto larts store and get some contact cleaner. That stuff has a lube oil in it most of the time and works good.

Sent from my SM-N950N using Tapatalk

Do I have to be cautious about using too much dielectric grease on the FF connectors to avoid interfering with connectivity? Or is that a non-issue when the contact surfaces are twisted into place? Will dielectric grease protect connectors from salt water corrosion? Would it be proper application to fill up the sockets with a big dollop of grease so excess squeezes out when they are screwed together, thereby keeping the salt water out? (That was my original plan before I was warned not to.)

I have heard conflicting "shop talk" about this from fishermen who are not electrical engineers.

questions on how to power a fish finder.
 

I use a shit load, always have, never a problem with conductivity or corrosion from saltwater.

Just don't let the loose ends get in the sand. That makes it fun to clean.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk