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Kayak car rack assist
My lower back is not in good enough shape anymore to hoist my Outback on to the roof rack on my Honda CR-V.
Any suggestions? I'm looking at the Thule Hulavator. Is it pretty much the gold standard or are there other options? I don't want a trailer. Thanks. |
I put carpet and all-purpose utility hooks on a couple 8 foot 2x4s to help slide the kayak onto my rack on a gmc envoy. Hoisting a hack up to 7+ feet after a day on the water was a bit much. But, for my PA I use a trailer
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9f4193056d.jpgI have an Outback CRV combo and made a T-bar to assist similar to ones you can buy. I only have to lift one end at a time.
Reading about the hulavator it only assists with up to 40 pounds from waist high. Sounds like you have to lift the whole 80 up to waist high to get it on. I like my T-bar and I'm 56 with periodical back problems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Yakima makes what they call a "boat loader". It's just a bar inside one of the roof crossbars that telescopes out. Allows you to put one end of the kayak on the bar, so you only have to lift one end at a time. Requires yakima round roof rack though.
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Thanks for the replies
I gotta do something.
I'd hate to ruin a fishing trip or worse by wrenching my back. |
I watched a guy load his Outback by himself using the Yakima bar extender. He extended the bar on the front rack and lifted the front of the Outback on to the bar. He had a little bungie or something to keep it from sliding off. Then went to the back and lifted it on. Look on Youtube and there are examples.
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Defjack uses the extender and he makes it looks easy. He is in good shape for his age.
I am waiting to hear from Andy so I can go to OEX to pickup my Thule Helluvator. Not cheap since I had to buy Thule cross bars too, so I can use the Helluvator. I will post about it. Since it will store the kayak on one side, there will be room for a roof carrier on the other part of the roof. If needed, I hope there is enough room inside the cab for my gear for Baja, so I don't need the roof carrier. There are many YouTube posts. |
Tried that
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I have a CRV with a hullavator.
Had back surgery about 4 years ago and it's been a big help. You do have to lift the yak around waist high. I have a Trident 13 so it's fairly light and haven't had any issues Downside is the cost but it has been worth it. Just make sure you take it off before you go in low parking garages. |
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And thanks for the tip about the Hullavator. |
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How long do my crossbars need to be to house 2 Hullavators? |
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They need to be at leas 4"-6" past the side railing. This insures the Hullavator stays prod of the car body. That way the car is protected. |
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Is that the foot mount that attaches to the vehicle? |
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Rather than me trying to paint a picture, I recommend to check out YouTube for many posts.
Since the kayak sits in a clam style bracket, one unit per kayak. It can not be used only for lifting. Thus, to have two kayaks, one would need two Hullavator. However, if a long enough cross bar is used, one set is all one needs. |
back seats folded down, hatch open and http://www.austinkayak.com/products/...FU1ufgodZCwOyw
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I have a similar dilemma.
Trident Prowler 15 gets to be a handful when loading after a day on the water. Here is something you might want to consider. It's called Rhino Rack. Check it out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSeHSCfHniQ Good luck. Regards. -JJ- |
My problem with loading from the back was the fact that once I lifted the front and put it on the Yakima holder, then the kayak would slip back. The rear of the kayak would also be scraping on the concrete and get marked.
No place to grab either. Later I used a tarp or cardboard on the ground, and used the rear strap attached to the back handle to keep the kayak from slipping. I even have a roller bar with suction cups that supposed to allow for ease of sliding of the kayak once parallel to the roof. After that it was going from side to side and using a step ladder to tie down the kayak and get on the hood to attach the front strap. Then repeat the same for unloading. With Hullavator once kayak is lifted to waist high, and positioned on the holder, the kayak can be strapped and front and rear (provided) ratcheting straps can be attached. No step ladder necessary. It seems the hardest part is to lift and lower the kayak waist high while holding the middle handles. |
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Sent from my LG-TP260 using Tapatalk |
The hullacator requires you to lift the whole kayak to belly height. The Yakima boat loader requires you lift one half the kayak over your head, but you do it twice.
Not clear that one method is any easier than the other. Try lifting half of your kayak over head or the whole kayak belly high, just like they do in the youtube videos, and decide for yourself. If your lifting using the boat loader, you put a folded towel or knobby door mat under one end of the kayak when you lift the other end. Then it won't slide or scratch. |
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Good tip. Wish I had thought about it. |
Got harbor freight trailer
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I have a Rhino Rack T Loader. It's never been used and still in the box. I'm willing to let it go for $200. PM if interested.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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I cant use a trailer for travel though. My RV tows the CRV with the kayaks on top of the CRV. |
This unit looks good
It looks like it's quickly removeable to attach to the other side if need be for two kayak loading.
http://www.rhinorack.com/products/sp...de-loader_rusl |
I like the idea of a small trailer too. Doubles as a wash rack and storage rack. Wheel it around like a dolly. Everything is thigh high and easily accessible.
Use a couple of parallel PVC pipes as convenient hull sliders the way Kirk Davis did in his picture above. Possible side tubes or long, lidded plywood boxes for stowing/locking poles and other gear that is inconvenient for a small car interior. I had an old, small 4'x4'x1' deep box trailer from Sears once for carrying folded display panels to art shows & trade shows behind my VW Bug. Disconnected from my VW, and wheeled it right in to my booth. That would have been an oh-so-easy conversion with top tube hull sliders and compartmentalized storage inside the 1' deep box part of the trailer. The tongue would have to be lengthened for a kayak. http://www.amersontire.com/portals/6...img/lawn-2.jpg __________________ Another interesting thought would be to build a set of street worthy wheels with a long lightweight tongue from steel tubing that fits in the scupper holes the way kayak cart wheels pop in. The kayak itself becomes the trailer. Maybe a couple of scrap front motorcycle wheels on a fabricated "Scupper-T"? Sounds like a fun day at a motorcycle swap meet to scrounge the parts. If your car lights are visible, I would skip the wiring altogether for a red flag on the back. Just a thought. Lightweight motorbikes are safe and stable on the freeway, so why not? I think I would defer to Kirk for sound mechanical engineering. If the rig was light enough, it might replace overpriced deluxe Hobie wheels altogether, and deliver your kayak right into the water :) __________________ Regarding your own particular travel needs, is the RV you are referring to a motorhome? That would offer some interesting space to work with too. Pondering all of the above, I think my next vehicle will be a MB Sprinter, 4WD. I'll add a small portable toilet, portable pump shower, and re-register as a motorhome. They are 20' long and my kayak will slide in the back as easily as it does now into my 20' Chevy Express passenger van with the seats removed. Too many toys, too little time. Yipee! :) |
I just looked up Malone trailers. Nice design ideas.
Jet Ski trailers look more substantial and are $1000 cheaper. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...mmc=Google-pla http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/d...QEREBERAREQf/Z http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/d...QEREBERAREQf/Z |
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